Popayan: derrumbes y baches


Camino a Popayán: derrumbes y baches
2 y 3 de Mayo, 2011.
Laguna de la Cocha a Popayan: 7 hs

Popayán es conocida como la ciudad blanca (todos los países tienen una). Y la verdad es que es bastante blanca. Es una ciudad colonial muy bien conservada, no muy grande y llena de universidades. Llegamos después de un largo viaje, por una ruta que dejaba mucho que desear. Muchos derrumbes por las grandes lluvias (parece que este invierno es uno de los más severos de los últimos tiempos, y agravado por el efecto de La niña) y muchos baches por el descuido del gobierno supongo (mucha policía en la calle, muchos militares en las rutas y poca plata para otras cosas). Pese a los pozos, llegamos. Recorrimos la ciudad, caminamos bastante y después de unos días estábamos listos para seguir nuestro viaje hacia Cali. Camino a Cali visitamos el parque nacional Puracé. Se encuentra más alto en la montaña, desde donde se observan los cóndores (pero no pudimos verlos porque llovía), hay también un volcán, al que se puede llegar hasta el cráter (después de 4 hs de caminata de ida), cascadas, y unos piletones con azufre y calientes producto de la actividad volcánica. E y T caminaron para verlos y a la vuelta se mojaron un poco. Terminamos saliendo a la ruta a eso de las 2 pm pero llegamos a Cali antes del atardecer.

We left Laguna de la Cocha on a mountain road filled with big potholes and uneven pavement. We were surprised to find a toll booth surrounded by potholes and even more surprised when they told us that the road ahead was in worse condition! It was true but fortunately traffic was light and we arrived at our destination after about seven hours of zig zagging: Popayan, known as white city. This time the moniker was right; almost every building in the old section of town is clean white. This university town was pleasant and bustling at the same time. We walked a lot around town visiting bakeries and searching for good coffee. E tried ‘chontaduros’, fruits of the palm tree that are boiled, peeled and eaten with salt and sometimes honey. They taste very similar to hearts of palm (minus chopping down the tree) but have a rough texture. Tasty. We also tried empanadas de pipián (~potato-stuffed turnover) and carantantas (very thin, large chips made with corn. sort of like a nacho but not). Outside the old town there are not many attractions and when heading to the museum of natural history just outside we were told by two unrelated passersby to be careful with muggings so we decided to skip it.
M and T played with each other at the park for a long time. The two are now paying more attention to each other, can play together for long stretches and are usually roaring with laughter.
Not too far from Popayán is the Puracé National Park house to the condor, one of the largest birds around. The drive was supposed to take less than an hour but it took us two hours and by the time we were up at about 4000 meters we were inside the clouds and it was raining. M fell asleep so E and T ventured on a narrow path leading to the Termas de San Juan, sulphur-containing waters coming from the Puracé volcano. The place seemed like out of a dream, surrounded by clouds, jungle and us jumping across holes with bubbling, smelly water.

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2 responses to “Popayan: derrumbes y baches

  1. Carlos Scimone

    Si siguiera pintando COLONIAL en esta tanda de fotos tendría material de sobra, pero ya no tengo tantas ganas de hacer cuadros de 60/70 horas de t6rabajo. iun besote a tosos del viejo FOX.

  2. Que lindas fotos chicos…un lugar divino parece!
    Gracias por el regalito para Agus! Es hermosa y le queda perfecta!
    Sigan disfrutando! Besos Nati

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