Perdidos en un laberinto de callejones – Lost in a maze of passageways


Tepoztlan, Cuernavaca y Taxco, Morelos
31 de Julio y 1 y 2 de Agosto, 2011
Oaxaca a Tepoztlán: 8 hs
Tepoztlán a Taxco: 3 h 20 min

Después de varios días sin andar en rutas, partimos hacia el norte. Después de viajar todo el día llegamos a Tepoztlán, un pueblito chiquito en medio de las montañas, con una iglesia muy antigua y no mucho más. Decidimos quedarnos por la noche y encontramos un camping pero salía lo mismo que un hotel, asique sin pensarlo nos fuimos al hotel. Recorrimos el pueblito, y como era domingo había una feria artesanal. Había mucha cestería y terminamos comprando una canasta gigante para la ropa. T se puso a jugar al fútbol en la plaza de la iglesia y después terminamos picando algo en un bar con música en vivo muy hippie. Al día siguiente salimos para Cuernavaca, otra ciudad colonial con una catedral muy imponente, y un castillo en pleno zócalo. Después de luchar con las tarjetas de crédito y débito que no nos funcionaban, partimos hacia Taxco. Taxco es otro pueblo colonial, que vivió de la explotación de la plata en tiempos de la colonia. Queda entre montañas, y está lleno de callejones y callecitas diminutas, todas en subida y bajada. La catedral es impresionante, más por afuera que por dentro. Esa tarde tomamos el teleférico para ver la ciudad desde arriba. Después, los chicos se pusieron a jugar en el zócalo un rato. Al día siguiente, visitamos las Cuevas de Cacahuamilpa. Estas cuevas se formaron por un río, son impresionantes, muy grandes, con estalactitas y estalagmitas gigantes. A diferencia de las cuevas que visitamos en Guatemala, en estas no había que escalar, habían construido un caminito a lo largo de la cueva que hasta estaba iluminado. Obligaban a hacer un tour que era muy malo (el guía), pero las cavernas valían la pena. A la vuelta, recorrimos un poco más el pueblito y ya nos preparamos para partir hacia nuestro próximo destino: el estado de Guanajuato.

Tepoztlán, Cuernavaca and Taxco
After a few days off the road it was time to move on. Next stop was Cuernavaca but there was so much traffic when we got close to México DF that we stopped for the night in Tepoztlán after being on the road all day. The view of Tepoztlán from the road is impressive, the church protruding at the top of the hill where the town is built. There was a lively Sunday market that was winding down so L quickly went to search for more artesanias while M, E and T played some soccer next to the church. The day’s catch was an enormous basket (about 3 ft tall) that luckily can be folded. After rearranging everything in the car once more it is now officially almost full. There is stuff up to the car’s ceiling but there are a few holes remaining.
From Tepoztlán we went on to Cuernavaca but ended up staying there only for breakfast and then kept moving to Taxco. Cuernavaca is a big city with a nice zócalo, cathedral and a fortress all in one place. It is apparently a city for the very rich but they are all hiding behind walls and compounds. No one came out to say hi.
Taxco was a couple more hours down the road. It is built on a very steep mountainside with very narrow streets with no sidewalks. Taxis are all old VW beetles (it seems to be mandatory) and public transport consists of minibuses with the routes painted on the front windows. We had a fun time getting lost in the countless alleys that appeared to dead end but always kept going. Some descended into a market that we explored through a maze of passageways where anything could be bought. Everything here seems a bit surreal, like stuck in time for a very long time. We could have spent another week just wandering up and down the streets. Taxco has a tiny zócalo next to the Parroquia Santa Prisca, a church with an extraordinarily detailed, rose-colored façade and an interior brimming with gold. There are small plazas, parks and churches (and even basketball courts) hidden everywhere.
We also visited the enormous Cacahuamilpa caves, extending almost one mile with 80 meter-high chambers. The majestic stalactites and stalagmites and weird rock formations are difficult to describe (hence all the pictures :)). Much unlike the La Candelaria caves we visited in Guatemala, it was an easy walk through a paved walkway although we did have to go through a horrible mandatory guided tour. The illumination is excellent but brief as lights turn on and off as the group moves through sections of the caves.
In Taxco we had yet another flat tire. #5 I believe.

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